Free Crochet Raglan Sweater Pattern: Amber Sweater

Looking for a top-down, seamless free crochet raglan sweater pattern that’s easy to make for a cozy and stylish long-sleeve sweater you’ll love to wear? Look no further—the Amber Sweater is a fantastic choice for winter crochet projects!

a women wearing a crochet striped long sleeve raglan sweater.

This easy crochet pullover is designed to be warm, comfortable, and super simple to whip up, with a free step-by-step sweater tutorial that’s beginner-friendly.

With sizes ranging from XS to 2XL, this pattern has been thoroughly tested for a great fit for everyone. Plus, I’ve included extra instructions to help you tweak the pattern for your measurements.

The Amber Sweater crochet pattern offers plenty of color options, allowing you to personalize your creation to match your unique style.

Keep reading to find the free pattern, or if you prefer a printable add-free PDF, you can find it on Etsy, Ravelry, and my online store!

You may also like: Crochet Sweaters – How to photograph your crochet items

A woman wearing glasses and a cozy crochet raglan-style Long sleeve sweater.

Choosing the Perfect Yarn for Your Amber Sweater

To make the Amber Sweater, the yarn choice and colors are endless! This free raglan sweater crochet pattern gives you the freedom to use your favorite #4 medium worsted weight yarn, preferably in a variegated yarn and a matching solid color for a fun color blend. Solid color yarn works beautifully, too! 😊

Check out the amazing sweaters my testers made to see the yarn and colors they used—get some great inspiration and ideas for your unique creation!

A woman wearing a simple crochet top down raglan-style sweater. — Amber Sweater – Tester Photo

Free Crochet Raglan Sweater ~ Let’s Get Started

Terms of use: I’m so happy to share this free pattern with you! Please enjoy it here on the blog (copying and printing isn’t allowed). If you’d like an ad-free, printable PDF, you can grab it in my shop for a small fee. Sharing this post helps me keep creating more free patterns—your support means the world! ❤️

Recommended Yarn: 🧶I Love This Yarn #4 worsted weight yarn, colors shown:

Linen: Yarn A.
Royal Gorge: Yarn B.

Yarn Substitution: These yarns are a close match, but you should always swatch.

Yardage: Depends on the size you are making; see sizing table for details.

Crochet Hook: (J) 6 mm or the needed hook to meet the gauge.

Gauge: 4” square=12 rows and 13 ST

Other Materials

Tag: Faux leather tags
Stitch markers.
Measuring tape.
Tapestry needle.
Scissors.

Abbreviations

CH: Chain
ST: Stitch
SL ST: Slip stitch
HDC: Half double crochet
V-ST: V-Stitch
RS: Right side
SP: Space
Rep: Repeat

Special Stitches

V-Stitch (V-ST): Place *HDC, CH 2, HDC* in the ST. Note: After the 1^st row, place your V-ST in the CH-2 sp of the V-ST of the previous row.
Half double crochet in the 3^rd loop: YO, instead of inserting the hook into the top two loops of the ST, look behind the ST. The 3rd loop is located just below the top two loops on the back side of the ST. Insert your hook into the 3rd loop from front to back. YO again and pull through the 3rd loop. YO and pull through all 3 loops to complete the HDC.

Pattern Notes

This pattern is written in US terms.
Skill level is intermediate.
This sweater is worked in continuous rounds, in one piece from the top down.
All sizes have the same size neck opening.
Change colors in the last ST of the row.

Color changing

To change yarn color, finish the last stitch of the row, but stop before the final yarn over.
Introduce the new color by holding it behind your work, yarn over with the new color, and pull it through the last loops of the stitch.
Drop the old color and continue crocheting with the new color as usual.
Do not cut the old color when you finish using it. Drop it and pick it up again in the next round.

Construction

This sweater is crocheted seamlessly from the top down. If you’re not familiar with raglan-style sweaters, here’s how it’s constructed:

Start with the neckline: Chain the foundation chain – Same for all sizes.
Divide for the raglan structure: Divide the stitches into four sections—one for the front, two for the sleeves, and one for the back. Use V-stitches to mark the corners.
Work the yoke: Crochet in the round, making increases (V-stitches) at the corners to expand the yoke.
Separate the body and sleeves and work the body in continuous rounds until you reach the desired length.
Return to the sleeve and work in rounds directly around the armhole openings.
I chose to work in continuous rounds for ease, but you can also join rounds with a SL ST and CH 2, if you prefer.

Step 1- Check your gauge

Meeting the gauge is essential when working on a garment. If your gauge is off, the final sweater may end up too small or too large. To get the most accurate gauge, make a small sample in the rounds.

Make a swatch: CH 30 to make a foundation chain, SL ST in the 1^st CH to make a circle, CH1.

Row 1: HDC in each CH around, join with SL ST, CH1.

Row 2: HDC in same ST, *HDC in the 3^rd loop in next ST, HDC in next ST*, rep *to* around, join with SL ST, CH1.

Row 3-12: Repeat Row 2.

Gauge: 4” square = 13 ST and 12 rows. If your width is correct but your height is a little off, use the hook that gives you the correct width.

Step 2 – Find your size

The measurements are taken with the garment laid flat before wear.
The model is 5’8″ with a 34″ bust and is wearing a size small.
For the best fit, use your bust measurement and select the closest size from the table below. If you prefer a looser fit, consider sizing up.
The stitch count and number of rows for each size can be found in parentheses in the corresponding color: XS (S, M, L, XL, 2XL). Color-coded sizes are available in the premium version only
The numbers at the beginning of the rows are your row count for all sizes.
The numbers at the end of the rows are your stitch counts for all sizes.
The yardage will depend on the yarn you choose and whether you adjust the length and width of the sweater. You’ll need about 40% variegated yarn and 60% solid color yarn.

Size	Bust Size	Width (underarm to underarm)	Total Length	Sleeve Length (underarm to cuff)	Yardage
XS	28”- 30”	14”	18”	14 ½”	3 skeins/950 yds
S	32”- 34”	15”	19”	16”	3 skeins/1000 yds
M	36”- 38”	17”	20”	16 ½”	3 skeins/1200 yds
L	40”- 42”	19”	21”	17”	4 skeins/1320 yds
XL	44”- 46”	21”	22”	17 ½”	4 skeins/1350 yds
2XL	48”- 50”	23”	23”	18”	5 skeins/1400 yds

Free Crochet Top-Down Sweater Pattern

In this blog, I’ll walk you through everything you need to crochet a sweater that fits just right. From picking the best yarn and checking your gauge to choosing the perfect size, I’ve got you covered.

If you want an easier option, you can get the full pattern as a printable PDF without ads. It comes with a full photo tutorial and a handy row tracker. You can buy and download it anytime from the shops linked below.

Prefer A Printable PDF?

Treat yourself to the ad-free, beautifully formatted version of this design for a small fee!

Ravelry

Etsy

My Shop

Step 3 – Crochet the yoke

With Yarn A, CH 75 to make a foundation chain (same for all sizes), SL ST in the 1^st CH to make a circle (make sure the foundation chain is not twisted).

Rnd 1: CH 2, HDC in same ST (1^st V- ST), HDC in next 14 ST (right sleeve), V-ST in next ST, HDC in next 22 ST(front), V-ST in next ST, HDC in next 14 ST (left sleeve), V-ST in next ST, HDC in next 21 ST (back), change to Yarn B, V-ST in the starting CH-2 sp. Place a stitch marker here to mark the beginning of the rows. From now on, crochet continuously in rounds. Move the ST marker up as you go. 71 STS total (V-ST do not count as ST)

Note: The front section has an extra ST to accommodate the stitch pattern later.

Rnd 2: Yarn B

HDC in the 3^rd loop of next ST (last ST of the V-ST),*HDC in next ST, HDC in the 3^rd loop of next ST*, rep *to* until you reach next V-ST. You should have 15 HDC (sleeve),
skip 1^st HDC of next V-ST, V-ST in the CH-2 sp, HDC in the 3^rd loop of next ST (last ST of the V-ST),*HDC in next ST, HDC in the 3^rd loop of next ST*, rep *to* until you reach next V-ST. You should have 23 HDC (front),
skip 1^st HDC of next V-ST, V-ST in the CH-2 sp, HDC in the 3^rd loop of next ST (last ST of the V-S), *HDC in next ST, HDC in the 3^rd loop of next ST*, rep *to* until you reach next V-ST. You should have 15 HDC (sleeve),
skip 1^st HDC of next V-ST, V-ST in the CH-2 sp, HDC in the 3^rd loop of next ST (last ST of the V-ST, *HDC in next ST, HDC in the 3^rd loop of next ST*, rep *to* until you reach the starting V-ST. You should have 22 HDC (back), change to Yarn A, V-ST in the CH-2 sp.

Rnd 3 – 22 (24, 26, 28, 30, 32): Rep Rnd 2, increasing by 1 ST in each section of every row and changing colors at the end of each row. End the last round with HDC in the starting V-stitch (place a stitch marker here)

Important notes:

Each section (sleeve, front, sleeve, back) will increase by 1 stitch (ST) in each row.
You will simply crochet continuously in the round, alternating HDC and HDC in the 3^rd loop. When you reach each V-ST, skip the 1^st HDC of the V-stitch, work a V-ST into the CH-2 sp, and then HDC in the third loop of the last HDC of the V-ST. An easy Stitch Count Tracker is available on the premium pattern only.
At the end of each row, double-check to ensure you are alternating the stitches correctly
If your yoke looks asymmetrical or you are left-handed, reverse the V-ST instructions by placing the last ST of the section (either HDC or HDC in the 3rd loop) into the 1^st HDC of the V-ST. Then, make a V-ST in the CH-2 SP, skip the 2^nd HDC of the V-ST, and place your 1^st HDC in the 3rd loop of the next stitch.

Stitch count by section (sleeve, front, sleeve, back). Do not count the V-STs.

Rnd 3: (16, 24, 16, 23), Rnd 4: (17, 25, 17, 24), Rnd 5: (18, 26, 18, 25), Rnd 6: (19, 27, 19, 26)….and so on. In the last round of the Yoke, you should have:

(XS) Rnd 22: (35, 43, 35, 42)
(S) Rnd 24: (37, 45, 37, 44)
(M) Rnd 26: (39, 47, 39, 46)
(L) Rnd 28: (41, 49, 41, 48)
(XL) Rnd 30: (43, 51, 43, 50)
(2XL) Rnd 32: (45, 53, 45, 52)

Step 4 – Separate body and sleeves

Supporting pictures are available in the premium version only.

Rnd 23 (25, 27, 29, 31, 33) (Set up round): With the yarn still on your hook, [skip over sleeve section to the next V-ST, HDC in next V-ST,*HDC in the 3^rd loop of next ST, HDC in next ST*, rep *to* until you reach next V-ST, HDC in the CH-2 sp], rep [to] until you reach the marked HDC in next ST. You should have: 91 (93, 97, 101, 105, 109) STS. Crochet continuously, the next round.

Tip: Count your ST to make sure you have an odd number here. Check to ensure you’re alternating HDC and HDC in the 3^rd loop correctly.

Note: Try on as you go! If you prefer a looser fit, add more rows to the yoke until you reach the desired width. You can also add 2–6 extra chains under each armpit. Work HDC into each of the chains in the next round, then continue with the pattern.

Rnd 24 (26, 28, 30, 32, 34) – Rnd 58 (60, 62, 64, 66, 68) or to the desired length: *(HDC in the 3^rd loop of next ST, HDC in next ST*, rep *to* changing color at the end of each row, crochet last 14 rows (about 4”) with Yarn A. At the end of the last row, SL ST, then fasten off.

Step 5 – Crochet the sleeves

Return to the sleeve and work directly around the armhole opening.

Rnd 1: Right side. Slip knot with Yarn A, HDC in the V-ST (see picture below), *(HDC in the 3^rd loop of next ST, HDC in next ST*, rep *to* around, HDC in next V-ST, change to Yarn B, add 1 HDC in the armpit space (see picture below), join with HDC into the 1^st HDC (you may use a ST marker here). From now on, crochet continuously in the rounds. 39 (41, 43, 45, 47, 49) ST.

Rnd 2: *HDC in next ST, HDC in the 3^rd loop of next ST*, rep *to*around, HDC in the 3^rd loop of the starting HDC, continue crocheting in rounds.

Note:

If you added chains under the arm for a looser fit, when you reach the underarm section, work HDC into each ST. Add an extra HDC to ensure you have an odd number of stitches. Then, continue with the pattern.
The sleeve style is straight (no decreases). For the larger sizes, if you feel the sleeve width is too wide at the wrist, you can decrease 1 ST every 3 rows, starting from Row 4. To do this, simply crochet the last 2 ST of the row together. Keep in mind that in some rows you’ll have an even number of ST, so you’ll need to crochet the last 2 ST with the same ST (without alternating HDC and HDC in the 3^rd loop) to maintain the stitch pattern.

Rnd 3 – 50(54, 54, 54, 54, 56) or to the desired length: *HDC in next ST, HDC in the 3^rd loop of next ST*, rep *to* around, changing colors at the end of each round, crochet last 16 rows (about 5”) with Yarn A.

End last round with SL ST, fasten off, weave in all ends, and you are all done! 🙂

I offer full support to help you with any questions or challenges you might have. Feel free to drop your comments in the section below or join our Facebook group, where I, along with my wonderful testers and community members, will be more than happy to assist you!

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Free Crochet Raglan Sweater Pattern: Amber Sweater

Choosing the Perfect Yarn for Your Amber Sweater