The Chestnut Sweater is a free beginner-friendly crochet sweater pattern worked top-down with a classic raglan fit—no sewing required. Designed for comfort and simplicity, this warm pullover is available in sizes XS–2XL and is the perfect project for crocheters ready to make their first garment.
Welcome to the Chestnut Sweater Crochet Pattern! I’m so excited to share this gorgeous, easy, top-down crochet raglan sweater with you!
The Chestnut Sweater is warm, comfy, and fits like a dream, with just the right amount of drape. It works up fast and is such a joy to make—so simple that even confident beginners can tackle it!
This no-sew crochet sweater pattern is available in sizes XS to 2XL, all thoroughly tested for a great fit. Whether this is your first crochet sweater or you’re adding another cozy pullover to your wardrobe, this pattern has everything you need.
This free crochet sweater pattern includes all the details to help you choose the perfect yarn, swatch for gauge, and find your size—with tips to adjust for a custom fit. My amazing testers had such a great time making this one, and I just know you will too!
Keep reading to find the free pattern, or if you prefer a printable add-free PDF, you can find it on Etsy, Ravelry, and my online store!
Easy Top-Down Crochet Sweater: My Yarn Pick
The right yarn can make all the difference in how your sweater turns out! For this pattern, I used a gorgeous #5 bulky yarn that’s on the thinner side, working more like a medium-weight yarn. It’s soft, lightweight, and has just the right amount of drape, making it perfect for a cozy yet flattering fit.
Easy Top-Down Crochet Sweater Pattern- Start Here
Recommended Yarn:🧶Caron Macchiato Cakes #5 bulky weight yarn. Color shown: Boundless.
- This #5 bulky yarn is on the thinner side. # 4 medium-weight yarns will also work, if you meet the gauge.
- Choose a soft yarn with good drape for the best results. Avoid stiff yarns, as they can affect the fit and look of the sweater.
Yarn Substitution: These yarns are a close match, but you should always swatch.
- Lion Brand Scarfie Yarn
- Caron Latte Cakes Self-Stripping Yarn
- Caron Colorama Halo Cake Yarn
- Lion Brand Ferris Wheel Yarn
- Red Heart Unforgettable Yarn
Yardage: See sizing chart.
Crochet Hooks
- (H)5 mm for the ribbing
- (K)6.5 mm hook for the body
Gauge: See the details further.
Other Materials
- Tag: Faux leather tags
- Stitch markers.
- Measuring tape.
- Tapestry needle.
- Scissors.
Abbreviations
- CH: Chain
- ST: Stitch
- SC: Single crochet
- HDC: Half double crochet
- DC: Double crochet
- SL ST: Slip stitch
- BLO: Back loop only
- DC2tog: Double crochet two together
- V-ST: V-Stitch
- Rnd: Round
- RS: Right side
- SP: Space
- Rep: Repeat
Special Stitches
- DC2tog: YO, insert hook in next ST, pull up a loop, YO, pull through 2 loops, YO, insert hook in next ST, pull up a loop, YO, pull through 2 loops. You have 4 loops on the hook, YO, pull through all loops.
- V-Stitch (V-ST): 2 DC, CH 1, 2 DC in the same ST.
Pattern Notes
- This pattern is written in US terms.
- Skill level is intermediate.
Step 1 – Swatch your gauge
- For the body, my gauge is: 4”x 4”/ 6.5 mm hook = 11 DC and 8 rows
- For the ribbing, my gauge is: 2”x 2”/ 5 mm hook = 8 SC BLO and 8 rows
Meeting gauge is key for a well-fitting sweater! If your gauge is off, your sweater might turn out too small or too big. The premium version includes easy-to-follow details on how to check your gauge and adjust your hook size to match the pattern’s gauge perfectly.
Related: How to Check Your Crochet Gauge: Step-by-Step Guide
Step 2 – Find your size
- The measurements are taken with the garment laid flat before wear.
- The model is 5’8″ with a 34″ bust and is wearing a size small.
- For the best fit, use your bust measurement and select the closest size from the table below. If you prefer a looser fit, consider sizing up.
- The stitch count and number of rows for each size can be found in parentheses in the corresponding color: XS (S, M, L, XL, 2XL). Color-coded sizes are available in the premium version only.
- The numbers at the beginning of the rows are your row count for all sizes.
- The numbers at the end of the rows are your stitch counts for all sizes.
- The yardage may vary if you use a different yarn or adjust the length or width of the sweater.
Click here to see the sizing chart
| Size | To Fit Bust Size | Width (underarm to underarm) | Total Length (including collar) | Sleeve Length (underarm to cuff) | Approximate Yardage |
| XS | 28”- 30” | 16” | 19” | 17” | 734 yds |
| S | 32”- 34” | 18 ½” | 19” | 19” | 781 yds |
| M | 36”- 38” | 19 ½” | 20” | 19” | 954 yds |
| L | 40”- 42” | 21” | 20” | 19 ½” | 1129 yds |
| XL | 44”- 46” | 22 ½” | 21” | 20” | 1327 yds |
| 2XL | 48”- 50” | 25” | 21” | 20 ½” | 1447 yds |
Construction
This sweater is crocheted in a top-down raglan style, starting at the middle back. Here’s a simple breakdown of the process:
- Collar: Start with crocheting a band in rows (same for all sizes). Join the ends to form a circle, which becomes the base of the raglan sweater.
- Raglan Setup: Divide the stitches into four sections—front, back, and two sleeves. Use V-stitches to mark the corners.
- Yoke: Crochet the yoke in continuous rounds, increasing with V-stitches at the corners to shape the sweater.
- Body: Separate the body and sleeves, then continue the body in continuous rounds to your desired length.
- Sleeves: Go back to the armholes and crochet the sleeves in rounds directly around the openings.
Free Crochet Raglan Sweater Pattern
In this blog post, I’ll share everything you need to crochet a simple, top-down jumper that you’re sure to love! If you prefer, you can grab the ad-free, printer-friendly PDF from my shops linked below. The premium version includes some extras not available in the free pattern, like color-coded sizes, step-by-step progress photos, and helpful tips for making adjustments.
Prefer A Printable PDF?
Treat yourself to the ad-free, beautifully formatted version of this design for a small fee!
Step 3 – Crochet the collar
- Numbers for each size are shown in the same color throughout the pattern (Available in premium version only)
- XS(S, M, L,XL,2XL). Numbers in black apply to all sizes.
Row 1: 5 mm hook, CH 11.SC in the 2nd CH from the hook and in each CH across, turn. (10).
Row 2: CH1, SC in the same ST, SC BLO in next 8 ST, SC in last ST, turn. (10)
Rows 3 – 68: Rep Row 2. Do not fasten off at the end of the last row.
✱ For all sizes, the collar should measure 17 ½” long and 2 ½” wide before stretching, with 68 rows required. It will stretch to fit a 23″ head circumference, so if the ribbing is close to 17 ½” long, it should work.
- You can adjust the width by adding or removing chains.
- If the ribbing is larger than 17 ½”, the collar may be loose, so tighten your tension.
- If it’s smaller than 17 ½”, the collar may be tight, so loosen your tension slightly.
- If possible, try it on to ensure the head opening is big enough and the collar feels comfortable.
Join the ribbing
Fold the ribbing in half, then line up the two ends. SL ST grabbing both, the 1st ST (BLO) on one side and the 1st foundation CH on the other side. SL ST into each ST (BLO) and the opposite CH of the foundation chain from the other edge. When you reach the end, remove your hook from your work and flip the ribbing so that the seam is to the inside. This will now be the right side of your work.
Step 4 – Crochet the yoke
✱ The Chestnut Sweater follows standard body measurements from the Craft Yarn Council, and all sizes have been tested for fit. But since everybody is unique—whether you have narrower shoulders, shorter arms, or a longer torso—and you might be using a different yarn, I’ve included tips to help you adjust the pattern if needed. Be sure to try on your sweater as you go and make any needed tweaks for the perfect fit!
Rnd 1: (RS) With a 6.5 mm hook, CH1, SC in each row of the ribbing (visible holes). (68) SC. Do not join with an SL ST. From now on, you will crochet continuously.
Rnd 2 (set-up row): SC in next ST (this will be the middle of the back section, use a ST marker here, move it up each row), HDC in next ST, DC in next 7 ST, 2 DC in next ST, CH1, 2 DC in next ST, DC in next 12 ST (right sleeve), 2 DC in next ST, CH1, 2 DC in next ST, DC in next 18 ST (front), 2 DC in next ST, CH1, 2 DC in next ST, DC in next 12 ST (left sleeve), 2 DC in next ST, CH1, 2 DC in next ST, DC in next 9 ST.
Rnd 3: DC in next 11 ST, V-ST in next CH-1sp, DC in next 15 ST (sleeve), V-ST in next CH-1sp, DC in next 21 ST (front), V-ST in next CH-1sp, DC in 15 ST (sleeve), V-ST in next CH-1sp, DC in next 10 ST.
Rnd 4: *DC in each ST until you reach the next CH-1sp, V-ST in the CH-1sp,* rep *to* around. You should have: (24,18, 24,18) ST (front, sleeve, back, sleeve). Do not count the V-ST.
Row 5 – Row 9 (11, 11, 12, 12, 13): Rep Row 4. End the last row in the middle back (marked stitch). At the end of the last row of the yoke, you should have: (sleeve, front, sleeve, back): Rnd 9: (33, 39, 33, 39), Rnd 11: (39, 45, 39, 45), Rnd 11: (39, 45, 39, 45), Rnd 12: (42, 48, 42, 48), Rnd 12: (42, 48, 42, 48), Rnd 13: (45, 51, 45, 51)
✱ Each section (sleeve, front, sleeve, back) will increase by 3 ST every row, adding a total of 12 ST per row. The Stitch Count Tracker is available in the premium version only!
Step 5 – Separate body and sleeves
✱ Each size (S, M, L, etc.) corresponds to a range of measurements (e.g., 28″-30″, 32″-34″, etc.), with a 2″ difference between the upper and lower ends of each size. Depending on where your bust measurement falls within the range, the fit can vary, even within the same size. Try on as you go! Adjust the number of chains under each armpit if needed to get the perfect fit.
Rnd 10 (12, 12, 13, 13, 14): DC in each ST across until you reach next CH-1sp, DC in the CH-1sp, CH1 ( 2, 4, 6, 8, 10), skip over sleeve section to the next CH-1sp, DC in the CH-1sp, DC in each ST across until you reach next CH-1sp, DC in the CH-1 sp, CH 1( 2, 4, 6, 8, 10), skip over sleeve section to the next CH-1sp, DC in the CH-1sp. Crochet continuously in the next round. You should have: 90 (104, 108, 118, 122, 132).
- Remember not to work in the hidden stitch of the V-ST.
- Try on your sweater, if possible, here. Adjust the number of chains under the armpit for a perfect fit.
- For a longer torso, add an extra row to the yoke.
- If your yarn is thick and stiff, the yoke might look bulky and fold under the arm. Try adding a row or two to the yoke and removing the underarm chains. A longer yoke will help prevent folding.
✱ For larger sizes. You can adjust the sleeve width at the wrist by decreasing a few more STs in the last round.
Rnd 11(13, 13,14, 14, 15)- Rnd 28 (31, 31, 32, 33, 33) or to the desired length: DC in each ST around, including the underarm CHs. In the last row, when you reach the middle back (the marked ST), continue with DC in each ST until 3 STs remain before the corner. Then, HDC in next ST, SC in next ST, and SL ST into the corner ST. Do not fasten off, switch to a 5 mm hook, and crochet the bottom ribbing next.
✱ Try on the sweater as you progress. Adjust the length if needed, but keep in mind that the bottom ribbing will add an extra 2” to the length.
Step 6 – Crochet the bottom ribbing
Row 1: With a 5mm hook, CH 11, SC in the 2nd CH from hook and in each CH across, skip next ST on the body edge, SL ST in next 2 ST on body edge CH1, turn. 10 ST.
Row 2: Skip next 2 SL ST, SC BLO in each ST across until one ST remaining, SC in last ST, CH1, turn. (10)
Row 3: SC BLO in each ST across, skip next ST on the body edge, SL ST in next 2 ST on the body edge, CH1, turn.
Row 4 – Row 90 (104, 108, 118, 122, 132): Rep Row 2-3 ending with Row 2. At the end of the last Row, CH1, with RS facing, SL ST both ends of the ribbing together, one ST at a time, fasten off and weave in ends.
Step 7 – Crochet the sleeves
Return to the sleeve and work directly around the armhole opening. Crochet continuously all rounds using the 6.5mm hook. A full photo tutorial is available in the premium version.
Rnd 1: (RS) Join with SL ST in the remaining loops of 1st (1st, 2nd, 3rd, 4th, 5th) CH of CH-1 (2, 4, 6, 8, 10) of armhole, CH 2, DC in same ST as SL ST, DC in next 0 (1, 2, 3, 4, 5), DC2tog over the next ST and the next V-ST, DC in each of next 42 (42, 42, 51, 51, 54), DC2tog over the next V- ST and the next ST, DC in next 0 (0, 1, 2, 3, 4) CH, crochet continuously.
Rnd 2: SC in 1st ST (place a ST marker here), HDC in next ST, DC in each ST around. 45 (46, 48, 53, 55, 58) ST, crochet continuously.
✱ For larger sizes, check the sleeve length for your size and compare it to your arm. If you need to shorten the sleeve, it might be wider at the wrist. To adjust, decrease every row until you reach the desired width, then continue crocheting straight without decreases.
Rnd 3: DC2tog over first 2 STs, DC in each ST around.
Rnd 4: DC in each ST around.
Rnd 5 – Rnd 28 (29, 29, 29, 30, 30) or to the desired length: Rep Rnd 3-4 until you have 32 (32, 34, 39, 41, 44) ST left. Then, crochet without any decreases for the remaining Rnds. In the last round, DC in each ST until 2 STs remain before the marked stitch. Then, HDC in the next ST, SC in the next ST, and SL ST in the marked stitch. Do not turn. Proceed with the ribbing next.
Crochet the sleeve’s ribbing
Row 1: With a 5 mm hook, CH 11, SC in the 2nd CH from the hook and in each CH across, skip next ST on the body edge, SL ST in next 2 ST on body edge CH1, turn. 10 ST.
Row 2: Skip next 2 SL ST, SC BLO in each ST across until one ST remaining, SC in last ST, CH1, turn. (10)
Row 3: SC BLO in each ST across, skip next ST on the body edge, SL ST in next 2 ST on the body edge, CH1, turn.
Row 4 – Row 32 (32, 34, 39, 41, 44): Rep Row 2-3 ending with Row 2. At the end of the last Row, CH1, with RS facing, SL ST both ends of the ribbing together, one ST at a time, fasten off.
Weave in all ends, and you are all done!
I offer full support to help you with any questions or challenges you might have. Feel free to drop your comments in the section below or join our Facebook group, where I, along with my wonderful testers and community members, will be more than happy to assist you!
