Lightweight, cozy, and stylish, The Lexington Cardigan is the perfect addition to your wardrobe! This top-down raglan design is seamless, beginner-friendly, and a joy to create. Customize it by adding a hood or keep it simple for a chic look. Wear it over a dress for an elegant style or pair it with jeans for a relaxed vibe—this free crochet pattern is versatile, easy to follow, and perfect for any season!
Looking for a free crochet cardigan pattern that’s both beginner-friendly and fun to make? This step-by-step tutorial will guide you through creating a gorgeous, raglan-style cardigan that works up quickly using worsted-weight yarn.
Whether you want a chic, lightweight long-sleeve cardigan to wear over a dress or a cozy, cropped cardigan with a hood for a laid-back vibe, this pattern has you covered.
Best of all, it’s a completely seamless and no-sew pattern, making the whole process even easier and more enjoyable!
Related: Rubi Cardigan, Riviera Sweater
Before we start this free crochet cardigan pattern
Best Yarn Choice for your Crochet Cardigan
For the Lexington Cardigan, I used Caron Macchiato Cakes, a #5 bulky yarn on the thinner side, and it worked beautifully. I also experimented with #4 medium-weight yarns, like Lion Brand Pound of Love for the pink and gray versions and Caron Blossom Cakes for the green one. The only adjustment I made was switching to a 7mm hook—everything else stayed the same and turned out perfectly!
For the best results, I recommend using a soft yarn with good drape. Avoid stiff yarns, as they can affect the fit and look of the cardigan. Thicker, bulky yarns like Charisma Yarn or I Love This Chunky may not give the same drape and feel for this project.
Feel free to use your favorite #4 medium-weight yarn for this project, just make sure to check your gauge for the best results.
Lexington Cardigan Free Crochet Pattern: Start Here
Recommended Yarn: 🧶Caron Macchiato Cakes: #5 bulky weight yarn. Color shown: Sunny.
- This #5 bulky yarn is on the thinner side. Some #4 medium-weight yarns will also work, if you meet the gauge. For the light pink and grey cardigans, I used LionBrand Pound of Love with a 7mm hook.
- Note: Choose a soft yarn with good drape for the best results. Avoid stiff yarns, as they can affect the fit and look of the cardigan.
Yarn Substitution: These yarns are a close match, but you should always swatch.
- Lion Brand Pound of Love
- Caron Latte Cakes Self-Stripping Yarn
- Lion Brand LiteYarn
- Caron Colorama Halo Cake Yarn
- Lion Brand Ferris Wheel Yarn
- Red Heart Unforgettable Yarn
Yardage: See details in the chart.
Crochet Hook: (K) 6.5 mm or needed hook to meet the gauge.
Gauge: 4” square = 9 rows and 13 HDC
Other Materials
- Tag: Faux leather tags
- Wood Toggle Buttons (optional)
- Hooks and eyes closure (optional)
- Stitch markers.
- Measuring tape.
- Tapestry needle.
Pattern notes
- This pattern is written in US terms.
- Skill level is intermediate.
Abbreviations
- CH: Chain
- ST: Stitch
- SL ST: Slip stitch
- PF: Puff stitch
- BLO: Back loop only
- HDC: Half double crochet
- HDC2tog: Two half double crochets together
- V-ST: V-Stitch
- Rnd: Round
- RS: Right side
- WS: Wrong side
- SP: Space
- Rep: Repeat
Special Stitches
- Puff stitch (PF): YO, insert hook into the ST, pull up a loop (3 loops on hook). YO, insert into the same ST, pull up a loop (5 loops on hook). YO, insert into the same ST, pull up a loop (7 loops on hook). YO and pull through all 7 loops, then chain 1 to secure the puff. If you are using #4 weight yarn, consider repeating *YO, insert the hook into the same ST, pull up a loop* one more time for a total of 9 loops before closing the puff ST.
- V-Stitch (V-ST): Place *PF, CH 1, PF* in the ST. Note: After the 1st row, place your V-ST in the CH-1 sp of the V-ST of the previous row.
- HDC2tog: YO, insert hook in next ST, pull up a loop, insert hook in next ST, pull up a loop, you have 4 loops on hook, YO, pull through all loops.
Construction
- This Cardigan is crocheted seamlessly from the top down.
- Start with the neckline: Chain the foundation chain.
- Divide for the raglan structure: Divide the stitches into five sections: front–right, sleeve, back, sleeve, and front –left. Use V-stitches to mark the corners.
- Work the yoke: Crochet in rows, back and forth from mid-front, making increases (V-stitches) at the corners to expand the yoke.
- Separate the body and sleeves and work the body in rows until you reach the desired length.
- Crochet the edging around the entire opening of the jacket and the sleeves.
- Return to the sleeve. Attach the yarn in the armpit and work the sleeve back and forth in rows from the join.
- Crochet the hood (optional)
How to Create the Lexington Cardigan to Fit You Perfectly
The Lexington Cardigan is designed using standard body measurements from the Craft Yarn Council. All sizes were tested for fit. However, since everyone’s body is unique—whether it’s narrower shoulders, shorter arms, or a longer torso….—and you might be using a different yarn, I’ve included detailed instructions and pro tips to help you tweak the pattern for the perfect fit. Pro Tip: Try on your cardigan as you go and make adjustments as needed.
Step 1 – Swatch your gauge
- Meeting the gauge is essential when working on a garment. If your gauge is off, the final sweater may end up too small or too large. How to Check Your Crochet Gauge: Step-by-Step Guide
- My swatch is: 4” square = 9 rows and 13 HDC BLO.
- If your width is correct, but your height is a little off, use the hook that gives you the correct width.
Step 2 – Find your size
- The measurements are taken with the garment laid flat before wear.
- The model is 5’8″ with a 34″ bust and is wearing a size small.
- For the best fit, use your bust measurement and select the closest size from the table below.
- Check the positive/negative ease to get a better idea of how the cardigan will fit. If you prefer a looser fit, consider sizing up.
- The stitch count and number of rows for each size can be found in parentheses in the corresponding color: XS (S, M, L, XL, 2XL). Color codes are available in the premium version only.
- The numbers at the beginning of the rows are your row count for all sizes.
- The numbers at the end of the rows are your stitch counts for all sizes.
- The yardage may vary if you use a different yarn or adjust the length or width of the cardigan. If you’re adding a hood, add an extra 260 yards to the total yardage.
Click here for the sizing table
| Size | To Fit Bust Size (positive / negative ease) | Width (underarm to underarm) | Total Length | Sleeve Length (underarm to cuff) | Approximate Yardage |
| XS | 28”- 30”– (+4, +2) | 16” | 15” | 17” | 2 skeins/ 734 yds |
| S | 32”- 34” – (+3, +1) | 17 ½” | 15” | 18” | 2 skeins/ 781 yds |
| M | 36”- 38”– (+3, +1) | 19 ½” | 17” | 18” | 2 skeins/ 954 yds |
| L | 40”- 42”– (+2, +0) | 21” | 19” | 18” | 3 skeins/ 1129 yds |
| XL | 44”- 46”– (+1, -1) | 22 ½” | 21” | 18 ½” | 3 skeins/ 1327 yds |
| 2XL | 48”- 50”– (+2, +0) | 25” | 21” | 18 ½” | 3 skeins/ 1447 yds |
Free Crochet Cardigan Pattern
In this free crochet cardigan pattern, I’ll walk you through everything you need to create your own Lexington Cardigan —from the yarn suggestions to the simple step-by-step instructions. But if you’d like a convenient, printable version, the Lexington Cardigan Premium Pattern is available for a small fee in all my shops, linked below.
Prefer A Printable PDF?
Treat yourself to the ad-free, beautifully formatted version of this design for a small fee!
Step 3 – Crochet the yoke
The numbers for each size are shown in the same color throughout the pattern: XS (S, M, L, XL, 2XL). (Color-coded sizes and supporting photo tutorial are available in the premium version only.)
CH 75 (75, 75, 80, 85, 90): to make a foundation chain
Row 1: HDC in 2nd CH from hook, HDC in next 9(9, 9, 10, 11, 12) ST (front–left), V-ST in next ST, HDC in next 15(15, 15, 16, 17, 18) ST (left sleeve), V-ST in next ST, HDC in next 20 (20, 20, 21, 22, 23) ST (Back), V-ST in next ST, HDC in next 15(15, 15, 16, 17, 18) ST (right sleeve), V-ST in the next ST, HDC in next 10(10, 10, 11, 12, 13) ST (front–right), CH1, turn. 70(70, 70, 75, 80, 85) STS total (V-ST do not count as ST).
Row 2: *HDC in BLO in each ST across until you reach the V-ST, HDC BLO in next PF, V-ST in next CH1- sp, skip next PF,* rep *to* until you reach the end of the row and have one stitch remaining, HDC in last ST, CH1, turn.
Note: Remember to close each PF with a CH, then add a CH1 for the CH-1sp.
Below is Row 2 stitch count by size and sections (front-left, left sleeve, back, right sleeve, right back). Do not count the V-STs.
- XS-Rnd 2: (11, 17, 22, 17, 11)
- S-Rnd 2: (11, 17, 22, 17, 11)
- M-Rnd 2: (11, 17, 22, 17, 11)
- L-Rnd 2: (12, 18, 23, 18, 12)
- XL-Rnd 2: (13, 19, 24, 19, 13)
- 2XL-Rnd 2: (14, 20, 25, 20, 14)
Row 3- Row 14 (16, 18, 18, 19, 20): Rep Row 2.
Note: In each row, the front-left and front-right sections increase by 1 ST each, and the sleeves and back sections increase by 2 ST each, for a total of 8 ST added per row.
At the end of the last row of the Yoke, you should have (front-left, left sleeve, back, right sleeve, right back). Do not count the V-STs:
- XS-Rnd 14: (23, 41, 46, 41, 23)
- S-Rnd 16: (25, 45, 50, 45, 25)
- M-Rnd 18: (27, 49, 54, 49, 27)
- L-Rnd 18: (28, 50, 55, 50, 28)
- XL-Rnd 19: (30, 53, 58, 53, 30)
- 2XL-Rnd 20: (33, 58, 63, 58, 33)
Step 4 – Separate body and sleeves
For a perfect fit: Each size (S, M, L, etc.) corresponds to a range of measurements (e.g., 28″-30″, 32″-34″, etc.), with a 2″ difference between the upper and lower ends of each size. Depending on where your bust measurement falls within the range, the fit can vary significantly, even within the same size. Try on as you go! Adjust the number of chains under each armpit if needed to get the perfect fit.
Row 15 (17, 19, 19, 20, 21): HDC BLO in each ST across until you reach next V-ST, HDC BLO in next PF, HDC in next CH-1 SP, CH 2 (3, 4, 6, 10, 12), skip over sleeve section to the next V-ST, HDC in next CH-1 SP, skip next PF, HDC BLO each ST across until you reach next V-ST, HDC BLO in next PF, HDC in next CH-1 SP, CH 2 (3, 4, 6, 10, 12), skip over sleeve section to the next V-ST, HDC in next CH-1 SP, skip next PF, HDC BLO in each ST until one ST remaining, HDC in last ST, CH1 turn. You should have: 104 (114, 124, 131, 146, 161) ST total, including the added chains.
Row 16 (18, 20, 20, 21, 22) to Row 35 (35, 39, 43, 47, 47), or to the desired length: HDC BLO in each ST across until you have 1 ST remaining, HDC in last ST, CH 1, turn (when you reach the under armpit, make HDC in each CH). At the end of the last Row, DO NOT turn, crochet the edge around the entire opening of the cardigan.
Crochet the Edging
With the yarn still on your hook, skip next row,*3 PF in next row, skip next row, SL ST in next row, skip next row,* rep *to* across ending with 3 PF in next row, HDC in the corner (place a ST marker here if you are adding a hood), HDC in each ST around the neckline, HDC in the corner (place a ST marker here if you are adding a hood), skip next row,*3 PF in next row, skip next row, SL ST in next row, * rep *to* until you reach next corner, SL ST in last row, fasten off.
Step 5 – Crochet the sleeves
Return to the sleeve and work directly around the armhole opening. The sleeve is worked in rounds, but turn at the end of each round, working back and forth from the starting ST. A full photo tutorial is available in the premium version only.
Rnd 1: RS for (XS, S, M, L) and WS for (XL, 2XL). Join with SL ST in the remaining loops of 1st (2nd, 2nd, 3rd, 5th, 6th) CH of CH-2 (3, 4, 6, 10, 12) of armhole, CH1, HDC in same ST as SL ST, HDC in next 0 (1, 2, 2, 5, 6), HDC2tog over the next ST and the next V-ST, skip next PF, 1 HDC BLO in each of next 42 (46, 50, 51, 54, 59), HDC BLO in next PF, HDC2 tog over the next V- ST and the next ST, HDC in next 1(1, 2, 3, 5, 6) CH, join with SL ST into the 1st HDC CH1, turn. 47 (52, 57, 60, 67, 74) ST
For a perfect fit: Check the sleeve length for your size and compare it to your arm. If you need to shorten the sleeve, it might be wider at the wrist. To adjust, decrease every 2 rows (or every other row, depending on your size) until you reach the desired width, then continue crocheting straight without decreases.
Note: If your yarn is on the thicker side, the drape may not be as flattering. In this case, consider decreasing every other row or even every row to shape the sleeve.
**For sizes (XS, S, M, L) only**
Rnd 2-4: HDC BLO in each ST around, join with a SL ST into the 1st HDC, CH1, turn. 47 (52, 57, 60) ST
Rnd 5: Dec over the 1st 2 STs, HDC BLO in each ST around, join with a SL ST in 1st HDC, CH1, turn. 46 (51, 56, 59) ST
Rnd 6-37(39, 39, 39) or to the desired length: Rep Rnd 2-5 until you have 44 (48, 48, 48) ST left. Then, crochet without any DEC for the remaining Rnds. At the end of the last row, join with a SL ST, CH1, do not turn. Crochet the border next.
**For sizes (XL, 2XL) only**
Rnd 2-3: HDC BLO in each ST around, join with a SL ST into the 1st HDC, CH1, turn. (67, 74) ST
Rnd 4: Dec over the 1st 2 STs, HDC BLO in each ST around, join with a SL ST in 1st HDC, CH1, turn. (66, 73) ST.
Rnd 5-(41, 41) or to the desired length: Rep Rnd 2-4 until you have(52, 52) ST left. Then, crochet without any DEC for the remaining Rnds. At the end of the last row, join with a SL ST, CH1, do not turn. Crochet the border next.
Crochet the Border (same for all sizes)
RS: With the yarn still on your hook*Skip next ST, 3 PF in next ST, skip next ST, SL ST in next ST,* rep *to* around ending with a SL ST in the join, fasten off, and you are all done!
Step 6 – Crochet the hood (optional)
Work the hood around the neckline.
Row 1: On the wrong side of the cardigan, slip knot, HDC in the 1st HDC (marked ST), HDC BLO of each ST across until you have one ST remaining, HDC in last ST (marked ST), CH1, turn.
Row 2-28: HDC BLO in each ST across until you have one ST remaining, HDC in last ST, CH1, turn. At the end of the last row, fold the hood in half at the top with the wrong sides facing out. SL ST along the top edge to join the two sides together, working into the back loop of each stitch on both sides. Fasten off and weave in ends.
Crochet the border (RS)
Join in the 1 HDC of the neckline, skip next 2 rows, 3 PF in next row, skip next row, SL ST in next row,* rep *to* across until you reach last HDC of neckline, SL ST in that ST, fasten off.
Step 7 – Closure
To close your cardigan, you can use:
- Hooks and Eyes: Sew hooks and eyes evenly along the inside edges of the cardigan. Use as many as you like.
- Toggle Closure: Attach a wooden toggle to the front of the cardigan (on the left side), aligning it with a scallop edge. Use the hole in the opposite scallop to fasten.
- Weave in all ends, and you are all done!
I offer full support to help you with any questions or challenges you might have. Feel free to drop your comments in the section below or join our Facebook group, where I, along with my wonderful testers and community members, will be more than happy to assist you!
Thank you for the lovely Cardigan pattern.
You are very welcome! Enjoy! 😊